By-the-glass selections are, thankfully, getting longer and the good restaurants long ago ditched boring, overpriced pinot grigios and ubiquitous sauvignon blancs. Like curious wine lovers who view ordering a single glass as a cheap way to try something new or special, I look for a minimum of 25 choices that encompass unusual finds to tempt the adventurous as well as at least a few big-deal labels. Coravin technology, for example, now makes it possible for the NoMad in New York to offer $60 glasses of 1995 Château Gruaud-Larose. When a restaurant offers pours in several sizes, as does London’s 28-50, that’s a plus, too.