a new gadget, the Coravin, takes things even further, extracting wine through the cork via a needle, and using inert gas to preserve the remains as if it had never been opened at all. The result is that bars can take a chance on the esoteric, and drinkers can try wines they’d never be able to afford by the bottle. I’m thinking of the 2008 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie (£14.50 a glass, £80 a bottle at Sager & Wilde at time of writing) or the 1989 D’Oliveiras Sercial Colheita Madeira (£11.20 for a 50cl glass, £100 a bottle at 28-50) – wines so good even a Kenny G sax solo couldn’t spoil them.