Press Club's gone in the other direction like a bat into hell. Its menu, which bears a striking resemblance to Infinite Jest as edited by a sommelier, consists of five pages of wines by the glass, 10 pages of wine by the bottle (with prices almost up to $900), and a section devoted to the Coravin system, which allows you to open bottles of rare wine, pour them by the glass, and reseal the bottle. (The process involves the use of a thin needle, argon gas, and the natural properties of cork — no twisty-tops need apply — and is still fairly unusual to come across. My dad was impressed. )