Las Vegas’ wine directors have surely gone off the rails. At Carnevino, Craftsteak and Le Cirque, fine and rare wines are showing up on the by-the-glass menus, offering a few precious ounces of Opus One, Insignia, Château Margaux and Sassacaia for not unreasonable prices. This alone isn’t entirely new; restaurants have happily poured rare and expensive wines by the glass in the past, and happily charged exorbitant prices to make it worth their while. And there’s no telling how long the bottle’s really been open. Ranging from $25 to $575—depending on the wine and number of ounces—these new pours, however, represent some actual value.