Ten years ago, you were lucky if you had more than two wine-by-the-glass options at most restaurants ("Will that be red or white, sir?"). Today, better eateries distinguish themselves with impeccably curated wine lists featuring not only exotic alternatives to the usual colors (golden bubblies, pink rosés, and orange wines), but amazingly sophisticated equipment, an emphasis on local, and recognition that consumers want more choices. Below, a quick analysis of what's changed in the wine-pouring world—and why—so you'll know what to ask for at the next new wine bar near you.