There will be more than 60 bottles of wine, mostly from California and France, with nearly half available by the glass, including 20 reds that are dotted with selections such as Screaming Eagle. That high-end pick routinely sells on the secondary market for more than $1,000 a bottle, but the Backroom will offer it by the glass thanks to the Coravin tool, which inserts a hollow needle through the cork so you can preserve freshness as you pour. An Enomatic dispenser will also help with wine preservation. But one of Smith’s best ways to keep the wine fresh is an old trick: “We’re going to have untraditional markups. We want to move wine; we want people to taste wine. We don’t want to make it unapproachable.”