A few weeks ago I went to a tasting at one of London's well-known wine merchants. Running late, I hastily pulled out my notebook and walked over to the first wine. It wasn't opened. Cursing myself for not arriving on time, I moved on to the next. Again it wasn't opened. Looking up, I saw a long line of bottles standing there, foil caps on, corks firmly in place. What was going on? Had I arrived so late that all the open bottles had been drunk?